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  • Need HELP Tinting Plastic

    I have started on my quest to build a 1:500 model airport terminal. I am trying to build the checkin/security/baggage claim area. This part will be mostly be made of clear plastic. It looks kind of funny now because you can see right through it and tell its just clear plastic. I was wondering how you can tint it to look more realistic. I don't have any idea of how to make that blue-green color on the plastic or inside the building to make it appear that way.

    you can see it well here:

    [photoid=5843666]

    and a little here:

    [photoid=6018429]
    Will C.


  • #2
    Window tinit
    My Flickr Pictures! Click Me!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Cam
      Can I use that on a building thats only 6" by 6"?, that stuff is for big car windows. And will that just make it just darker or will it give it that greenish look??
      Will C.

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      • #4
        You can go to special car tuning stores and buy a car tint in any colour you want. In that case I would go either with green or dark lime.

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        • #5
          And how big are the sheets, and what can I expect to pay, is it similar to the autozone price?
          Will C.

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          • #6
            Well it all depends. You will probably want to look at the cheapest tint as it is only supposed to give the glass the greenish shade and not to block any sun light. When I was getting a light black tint for my windows I payed $60 for two side doors and $ 40 for two back windows. The sheets are pre-cut to match the window size. You might go to the strore adn talk to them about getting a certain size. You will probably need a small sheet of tint so it should cost around $20.

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            • #7
              Don't buy anything yet untill you've heard or been consulted by OldHooker, he's the man to go to when looking for advices into modelling.

              I think window tint for car would be too much.

              I would probably try waterbased colour, buy those clear glasswindow and apply a thin layer of the waterbased paint on the inner surface, whether you're using green or blue, it should give some sort of tint. Now I wish I can give you some example photos, but I dont have any clear glass styrene to test it on.

              Hopefully Oldhooker will notice this thread.
              Inactive from May 1 2009.

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              • #8
                window tinting

                Hi guys,

                Automotive window tint works really well on small flat surfaces, but you must be careful when applying it to a larger soft (clear plastic) surface because of air bubbles, or the more common "wavey" reflection it will create if a perfect all over seal is not accomplished. Which brings up another issue; what bonding agent can you use to get that overall seal that will not react to the clear plastic surface?

                There is another way of tinting clear pieces that is quicker, MUCH less taxing on the nerves, and produces a realistic, overall uniform, and DURABLE finish; "Future" floor polish and liquid "Food Coloring"! Also get some wooden clothespins and a tin pie pan. Experiment with the Future/Food Coloring mixture first to get the desired hue.

                When cutting out the clear piece, leave a "tab" on each of the long sides, then clamp a clothespin to one side to hold that piece while dipping in the mixture. (after dipping, attach a clothespin to the tab on the other side and use those as supports while curing) IMPORTANT: The piece must be held and cured in a horizontal position (flat) in a dust free area (under a box) so the tinted mixture will be uniform (no drips or runs). Once the piece is cured you can cut off the "tabs" and it will be ready to mount.

                If a piece of lint settles on the piece, or you accidently touch it while it's still wet, the Future mixture can be cleaned off using Windex Glass Cleaner.

                Another miracle of "Future"; it makes a clear plastic piece appear to be thinner, thus more realistic looking.

                Hope this helps a little.

                Take care,
                Frank
                "Don't aftermarket details save lots of trouble?"
                "Only if you'd rather spend less time modeling!"

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                • #9
                  Thanks guys, I think I will try the "Future" stuff first, but if that fails, then i will move on to the automotive glass tinting stuff. Unfortunately I have already started on assembling the buildings, Is there any way to "paint" on the Future stuff, should I take the building apart? or start over? Again thanks everybody for all of your help
                  Will C.

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                  • #10
                    Btw, Will is there any chance we can see some pictures of the project

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                    • #11
                      Ya, Pat I'll try, Its kinda sloppy, but maybe later tonight I can get some on.
                      Will C.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks Will, always great to see those projects

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Will_Power
                          Is there any way to "paint" on the Future stuff, should I take the building apart? or start over?
                          Will,

                          The times I've brushed it on, I couldn't seem to get a uniform tint coverage because of the brush strokes. However, by the looks of the 1st reference photo, if you're going to build those slats along the outside, I don't think it would matter. If you use a wide, soft artist brush, nice and full, and applied it with a side to side stroke, you probably couldn't even tell. (but you'd have to be ready to wipe any drips along the side)

                          If you've already have a plan worked out and got it going, and everything's working okay, I wouldn't take it apart.

                          Can't wait to see pictures.

                          Take care,
                          Frank
                          "Don't aftermarket details save lots of trouble?"
                          "Only if you'd rather spend less time modeling!"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here's a few pictures, I of coarse have to still paint and tint, and add other touches to make them more realistic (comments and advice are welcome). I also should have painted it before constructionIt is a little hard to see the clear plastic in one of the pictures. The other one is just an overview, I added planes (1:500, not 1:400) just so you can see the relative size of the building. I will have to make the foil once the building is finished. The one there was just one I made to help construction. It is a little messy in some places, not as detailed as oldhooker could do, but I'm proud of my first attempt. So here they are:



                            Will C.

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                            • #15
                              Looks pretty dadgum good to me!

                              Will,

                              If this is your first dio, you're certainly off to a fine start! You have it drawn/laid out well, and the terminal construction is really looking GOOD!

                              Each time you work on it, you'll learn things you will apply to the next project, where you'll learn even more things... the more you practice the more you learn.... and on it goes my friend!

                              Here's something else that creates a pretty good illusion when used on small scale builds....


                              A space must be left between the outer & inner shells. On the base, paint everything inside the terminal boundry very dark flat gray (almost black) ... also paint the *solid* section of the interior piece the same 'very dark flat gray'. You could also paint thin silver vertical lines and white dots randomly on the interior piece (so it's not just black inside)... then place the outer terminal shell over it.

                              Doing this could eliminate the need of *tinting* the glass, all the while keeping it from being an empty shell.
                              ~~~~

                              All: I don't mean to always go into these long explinations, and certainly don't want to suggest my techniques are the final authority. They are just the results of many MANY hours of trial & error before reaching a workable solution, using minimum *store-bought* material. I'm not getting any younger and I'll probably never author a book, so I like sharing some of the lessons I've learned along the way, so maybe some of that nerve wracking *trial & error* time can be avoided!

                              Keep it going dude!

                              Take care,
                              Frank
                              "Don't aftermarket details save lots of trouble?"
                              "Only if you'd rather spend less time modeling!"

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