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  • DSLR Lens + other Questions...

    I am working on MAYBE getting a DSLR... but I need to know a couple things...
    basically simplifying a couple things into idiot talk...
    1) How much would a 17-85mm be approximately equivilent to compared to optical zoom?
    2) How much would a 100-400mm be approximately equivilent to compared to optical zoom?
    3) As the owner of a DSLR would you say you make a decent amount of commercial photo sales, and do more get finalized? (I'll need to pay off my debt some how)
    4) Which of the batch would you prefer between the digital rebel, canon 10d, or canon 20d? Why?

    Your help would be greatly appreciated, if you can help.
    THANK YOU SO SO MUCH...

    Signed,
    A future DSLR owner??
    Jason DePodesta

  • #2
    Hi Jason,

    Here are the answers to yours questions :

    1) When chosing a DSLR camera like the 10D,20D or DR..keep in that there is a 1.6 crop factor therefore a 17-85 is equivalent to a 27-136mm. and the 100-400 will be equivalent to a 160-640mm.

    the first lens will give you a 5x Optical Zoom and the second one 4x zoom. Keep in mind that the 17-85 covers Wide Angle and Normal range ..the 100-400 covers more (Super) Telephoto.

    2) Sorry I am not making any commercial photos so can't answer that question.


    3) I would go for the 20D definitly since it's a newer camera with new features compared to the 10D. But between the 10D and DR only , the 10D is much better ( solid metal body, more flexibility in the settings, black color...)

    Vadim

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    • #3
      How much would a 17-85mm be approximately equivilent to compared to optical zoom?
      How much would a 100-400mm be approximately equivilent to compared to optical zoom?
      Just multiply the lens focal length by 1.6 and thats the effective focal length of the lens in question on the 300D/10D/20D.

      Which of the batch would you prefer between the digital rebel, canon 10d, or canon 20d? Why?
      The 20D would be the best... obviously

      Also, any DSLR beats the crap out of a P&S
      Last edited by Airbus_A320; 2005-01-05, 05:01.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Vadim
        ...the 17-85 covers Wide Angle and Normal range ..the 100-400 covers more (Super) Telephoto.
        I knew that part...do you know approximately how much optical zoom i's equivilent too?? 7x-35x??

        Originally posted by Vadim
        I would go for the 20D definitly since it's a newer camera with new features compared to the 10D. But between the 10D and DR only , the 10D is much better ( solid metal body, more flexibility in the settings, black color...)
        Originally posted by Airbus_A320
        The 20D would be the best... obviously
        Yeah but not always is the newest product worth the extra money, since sometimes they charge you tons of extra money for the new technology. So the 20D has to be quite abit better statistically.

        Originally posted by Airbus_A320
        Also, any DSLR beats the crap out of a P&S
        hehehe...i'm sure we're all aware of that, but it's hard to come up with the moolah for something like that, especially if you're not sure whether you can make it back



        Also, do any of you guys have a problem trying to sell non-aviation photographs, and what are some suggestions on how to market yourself in the field?

        Sorry for all the questions, but considering the price for all of this, I don't want to take a chance and be stranded with no money for awhile (paying off camera) and no money coming in besides from my work (which isn't much).

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tepodesta
          I knew that part...do you know approximately how much optical zoom i's equivilent too?? 7x-35x??


          Usually, if you're talking in terms of 35mm, to calculate optical zoom, just divide by 35... so if you have a 35-105mm, its 3x optical zoom (105/35 =3).

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tsentsan
            Usually, if you're talking in terms of 35mm, to calculate optical zoom, just divide by 35... so if you have a 35-105mm, its 3x optical zoom (105/35 =3).
            that is incorrect. The optical zoom is not based on 35mm (tho it is in this example), but it depends on the lens. let's take the 100-400 as an example. At 400mm there are 4x as much mm then at 100mm, so it is 4x optical zoom. If you want to know the optical zoom, just divide the largest by the smallest.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Spotter
              that is incorrect. The optical zoom is not based on 35mm (tho it is in this example), but it depends on the lens. let's take the 100-400 as an example. At 400mm there are 4x as much mm then at 100mm, so it is 4x optical zoom. If you want to know the optical zoom, just divide the largest by the smallest.

              That cant be correct.
              With your explanation a 28-300mm lens would be 10,7x optical zoom.
              A 70-300 woud be 4,2x optical zoom.

              So we have 2 300mm lenses with totally different numbers....
              greetings,
              Philip
              ______________

              Comment


              • #8
                Zoom is merely the ratio between the longest and shortest focal lengths of a lens. It is focal length (and sensor size on a digital camera) that determines how large the subject appears in a photo.

                Two P&S cameras with the same optical zoom:

                Canon PowerShot G6 (4x Zoom)

                Widest: 35mm
                Longest: 140mm

                Olympus C-5060 Zoom (4x Zoom)

                Widest: 27mm
                Longest: 110mm

                With these two cameras at full zoom, the Canon will get you closer to the subject (140mm), but the Olympus will allow you to get a wider angle shot.

                Zoom, on it's own, has no influence on how close you can get to a subject. The combination of Zoom and shortest focal length does.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by twr75
                  Zoom is merely the ratio between the longest and shortest focal lengths of a lens. It is focal length (and sensor size on a digital camera) that determines how large the subject appears in a photo.

                  Two P&S cameras with the same optical zoom:

                  Canon PowerShot G6 (4x Zoom)

                  Widest: 35mm
                  Longest: 140mm

                  Olympus C-5060 Zoom (4x Zoom)

                  Widest: 27mm
                  Longest: 110mm

                  With these two cameras at full zoom, the Canon will get you closer to the subject (140mm), but the Olympus will allow you to get a wider angle shot.

                  Zoom, on it's own, has no influence on how close you can get to a subject. The combination of Zoom and shortest focal length does.

                  That's actually quite interesting, thanks for that little bit of extra information.

                  Another question for you DSLR - Preferably Canon 20d owners... how big is the file size of each photograph...how big of a card would you guys recommend??

                  btw, I really appreciate all this help, i'm beginning to understand some new things.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Indeed, "Zoom" in itself doesn't matter. It's used on compacts as a marketing argument but the real deal is the focal lenght equivalent to 35mm film.

                    My Fuji S5000 only has a 5.7 to 57mm Fujinon Lens (that would be 10x Zoom), but since the chip is much smaller than 35mm film you have a large crop factor and end up with a 38 to 380mm equivalent.

                    OTOH, my D70 with the Sigma 100-300 I would want to use only has "3x Zoom". The Crop factor is 1.5 (the sensor ship is 1.5 smaller than 35mm film) and so I actually would get a 150 to 450mm equivalent.

                    So in fact the Sigma only has "3x zoom" but in terms of total maginifcation it's 380mm to 450mm and the Sigma wins hands down.

                    As for card size, not under 512 MB, I'd recommend a Gig. Since the 20D makes use of a dynamic buffer management system you will benefit from a fast card, so say a Sandisk II Ultra or Lexar 40x WA.

                    One standard disclaimer, though: If you are not sure if you can afford the 20D without selling any prints, then you are really on the low side of cash to enter the DSLR World. The Camera is only the start, and the included kit lens (18-55mm F3.5 to 5.6) is not all that good. You will need more and better lenses, and they can easily cost half the price of the Body well, otherwise you're crippling the resolution cabability of the camera.

                    IMHO, DSLR is not something you should try to get "just on the edge", you ought to have a bit of a reserve to get the other details right as well. If you buy an expensive body but only cheap addons (Card, Lenses, Bag) then you are not making good use of a large investment.
                    Last edited by HelmutS; 2005-01-07, 10:08.

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                    • #11
                      That is true, I would either recommend a D-Rebel (300D) with some fine lenses, instead of a 20D and some cheap lenses.

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                      • #12
                        This iswhat I am now planning on starting off with...
                        Canon 20D + everything in box
                        CANON EF-S 17 - 85 mm F4.5 - F5.6 IS USM
                        Canon 20D accessory kit (Canon Bag, Battery Grip, and extra battery)
                        CANON EF 75-300MM/4-5.6 USM II/III AF
                        and
                        Lexar 1GB PRO 80X CompactFlash Card

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