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  • #16
    Originally posted by cja
    A ploariser will reduce glare and a UV will reduce any cast caused by UV rays but the later can also be corrected in Photoshop.

    Have you tried using exposure compensation to deal with white fuselages?
    Hello!

    When I know that the next aircraft to picture is white, then I substract at least 0,3EV. Just another option is a review of the last pictures taken to see the histogram, keeping in mind all the time avoid the overexposure.

    If you're object is static, another good idea it will be switch -if possible- the meter to spot, and look for the more bright part, then lock the exposure, then press the shutter release.

    I'll be happy if this is useful for you !

    Best regards,

    Heavycloud

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    • #17
      Originally posted by heavycloud
      Hello!

      When I know that the next aircraft to picture is white, then I substract at least 0,3EV. Just another option is a review of the last pictures taken to see the histogram, keeping in mind all the time avoid the overexposure.

      If you're object is static, another good idea it will be switch -if possible- the meter to spot, and look for the more bright part, then lock the exposure, then press the shutter release.

      I'll be happy if this is useful for you !

      Best regards,

      Heavycloud
      I thought you are supposed to INCREASE exposure compensation on white subjects because the camera will want to read them at 18% grey. I usually have mine set at +.07 stops.
      Follow me on Twitter! www.twitter.com/flyingphotog

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      • #18
        + or - EV

        Hi PT737SWA !

        I was talking about my experiencies with my cameras (both DSLR). I.e, with bright sun a compensation of -0,7EC or -1EV (matricial exposure) is "normal". On the other hand, with (don't laugh), heavy clouds or overcast weather, I start with no compensation, and probably ends my session with +0,3 or +0,7 EV. Perhaps I forget to comment a very important thing: actually, I'm only shooting in RAW! I used only for two weeks .jpg, but exposure was not so critical as when I go to the airport, where mainly see flying aircrafts, often with no second chance. However, I tend to be conservative, and I prefer a picture slightly underexposed, if I have too contrast. Some people talked me about editing in the field with a laptop camera parameters but...it's a little embarrasing, and my laptop has no Firewire With slides, I don't remenber this behaviour, but let me tell you something: when I was using Velvia, the camera was in the 40 ASA position

        All the upper words to say: know your camera and know how your light meter works.

        Best regards,

        Josep

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        • #19
          Originally posted by JeffinDEN
          A UV filter does nothing for a digital camera. UV is blocked by the anti-ailising screen on your sensor. UV light only affects color film.
          So am I effecting the quality of my sigma EX lens by having an UV filter attached.I want to do some tests but we have had 4 weeks of rain and overcast conditions in Perth.
          So time is up for you guys.....Return The F----n Sunshine where it belongs.

          Greg
          My contribution to JetPhotos

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Greg Wilson
            So am I effecting the quality of my sigma EX lens by having an UV filter attached.
            No, not in the least. Leave it on, it will prevent you from having to clean the front element.

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