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  • Noise in the sky/ shooting through windows.

    I can't figure out why my D50 gets so much friggin noise in the sky. Sometimes it doesn't seem to be a problem, but it seems like it's more prone to it than other cameras, even when shooting at ISO 200 (the lowest it can go) and getting the exposure just about right. What's the best way to get rid of it in photoshop without having to use noise reduction on the whole picture? I've tried selecting the sky only and using the median tool, but that gives the sky a really strange sort of pixelated (i dont think that's the word I'm looking for) look. Anybody else know a remedy for it?
    Also, does anybody know a good way to shoot through plane windows? It seems like no matter what I do I'm getting glare and/or reflections in the glass, which ruins the picture.
    Thanks in advance.


  • #2
    Dunno about the noise in the sky Jordan, but for the windows just get as close as you can (touching is good) and as flat to the window as you can. I also cup my hand around the end of the lens if I have to tilt the camera which helps keep stray reflections out. Of course, keep your hand out of sight otherwise you defeat the object!

    Andy

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    • #3
      Firstly, get a Canon...

      Seriously have you tried using Neat Image or Noise Ninja? You can just select the sky with the wand tool and apply noise reduction to that.
      2x Canon 1Dmk3 -- Canon 400mm F2.8 IS L - Canon 100-400mm L IS USM -- Canon EF 70-200mm L IS F2.8 --Canon 300mm F2.8 IS L









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      • #4
        You can buy rubber lens hoods that will allow you to press up against glass to block out unwanted reflections, although this will only work assuming your lens doesn't rotate externally when focussing, or focus first then press against the window. I tend to use a hand to cup the lens. I keep forgetting though that I usually have lens filters on with a serated edge and usually end up scratching the window by accident...ooops!

        As for noise, iso200 being the lowest doesn't help, although I can usually shoot quite happily at iso200 on my 20D. I always try and stick to iso100. Iso400 is pretty usless on the 20d unless you are taking photos where noise is not an issue (ie non aviation). Also I guess (and this is not having a go at Nikon or anything) that the D50 has a cheaper sensor than the D200, D2x or whatever which is more prone to noise?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JordanD
          I can't figure out why my D50 gets so much friggin noise in the sky. Sometimes it doesn't seem to be a problem, but it seems like it's more prone to it than other cameras, even when shooting at ISO 200 (the lowest it can go) and getting the exposure just about right.
          All your photos I looked at on the DB have a -0.67 EV......and histograms indicate underexposure.
          You also have contrast set at maximum........probably not helping.
          My contribution to JetPhotos

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          • #6
            Agree with Greg here: best way to get rid of noise - if the camera itself is OK - is a proper exposure, above all avoiding underexposure. An EV of -0.67 won't help much. Try an EV of +0.33 for example. Or use different metering settings.
            My photos on Flickr www.flickr.com/photos/geridominguez

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            • #7
              When I mount cameras behind basketball backboards we have to cover the back of the backboard below our camera with Cinefoil.

              All it is is black aluminum foil, I think about $20 a roll and you can basically use it forever until it gets used so much it just can't go any longer.
              Tanner Johnson - Owner
              twenty53 Photography

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Manc
                Firstly, get a Canon...
                Fool!!

                Reading the destruction booklet helps - sometimes.

                Andy

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                • #9
                  It is not a prolbem of the camera I can and could easily upload pictures taken with the D100 at ISO 200 or 250. However a exposure compensation of -0,667 on a Nikon is not normal. Nikons tend to underexpose. My D200 suualy needs +0,3 under sunny conditions and uo to 0,7 under cloudy conditions. The D100 needs even mpre + compensation.

                  Thje mainproblem is that you are using matrix metering which is nit good for aviation as it meters by using an average of the whole screen. With a bright sky, the plane comes out to dark. Under the individual functions of your camera, Point 14 you should be able to chance the metering mode to center weighted. That should solve most of your problems.
                  My photo editing guide - updated and improved Feb. 2010
                  My Nikon D100,D200,D300, D800, D7200 basic spotting settings guide
                  ACIG - the best resource for military aviation information

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the help guys. The sensor is probably more cheaply built on the D50 though, considereing it's a cheap, entry level DSLR. But I'm afraid if I shoot a white aircraft (or really any aircraft) and use EV+0.3 I'm going to blow out the plane. Also, is the wand tool only in the full (payware) version of neat image?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JordanD
                      Thanks for the help guys. The sensor is probably more cheaply built on the D50 though, considereing it's a cheap, entry level DSLR.....
                      Not true......mainly lack of camera features relate to entry level models.

                      Originally posted by JordanD
                      But I'm afraid if I shoot a white aircraft (or really any aircraft) and use EV+0.3 I'm going to blow out the plane.
                      Have you tried.........I am sure I alerted you to this problem months ago with the same answer. I think your answer is related to the standard.. "I throw in some negative EV to underexpose to save blown areas. I can fix it in PS".....statements made from time to time. I believe my Pentax has the same sensor as the Nikon.....and I have never had to go minus.
                      And don't dismiss the fact of your camera set on max contrast.
                      My contribution to JetPhotos

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                      • #12
                        You need to switch toe centre weighted metering. 3D matirx is bad for aviation, as it will excalty do what you describe and overexpose a white plane.
                        My photo editing guide - updated and improved Feb. 2010
                        My Nikon D100,D200,D300, D800, D7200 basic spotting settings guide
                        ACIG - the best resource for military aviation information

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by exmanx
                          Dunno about the noise in the sky Jordan, but for the windows just get as close as you can (touching is good) and as flat to the window as you can. I also cup my hand around the end of the lens if I have to tilt the camera which helps keep stray reflections out. Of course, keep your hand out of sight otherwise you defeat the object!

                          Andy
                          Dont forget about vibrations of the window if your shooting through a jet's window, you wouldnt want to be touching the window then.
                          If you can't DODGE it, RAM it!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Madcat Images
                            Dont forget about vibrations of the window if your shooting through a jet's window, you wouldnt want to be touching the window then.
                            Jets? Whats this "Jets" stuff? Turbo-props rool KO!!

                            You're right though. however a decent fast shutter speed generally helps and clean windows! Don't fly Air France!!

                            Andy

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                            • #15
                              Changing the metering settings and using EV +0.3 seems to have helped. Thanks. I couldn't find how to reset only the contrast in the menu though.

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