Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzze Assist

[RobinB]

OK, I would welcome assistance here - using my Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro mounted onto my Canon 350D - also on tripod - I still get a blurred pic - what am I doing wrong !!!!!!



Shot as follows:

1/500
F7.1
ISO 100

[philip]

There can be different reasons but with a shutter speed of 1/500 hand shake should not be a problem. What mode do you shoot with (P,Tv,Av,...)?
Most lenses do have a certain setting where the sharpness is ideal. Often this is around f8. So you might try shooting with that aperture locked.

Then there is always the possibility that your lens is not working fine. To figure that out mount your system on a tripod and focus on anything stationary (landscape, house, whatever,...). This way pictures must be sharp...if not it might be your lens...

[RobinB]

Hi Philip, many thanks for your reply.

I was shooting on a tripod and setting "P"

This is what I got using same lens on a stationary aircraft (also on tripod)



F8
1/400
ISO 100

I'm OK with stationary objects - as soon as I'm shooting a moving object UUUURG
See what I mean



Tripod
1/400
F7.1
ISO 100
Focal Length 300mm
Evaluative metering

[v1images]

It could possibly be Heat Haze? Especially when shooting an aircraft over quite some distance of apron. Also if it is moving objects it blurrs with try just using the Centre Focus Point, that way it only has to focus on that one point and not have to consider any of the others. If you use all other focus points by the time your subject is in focus and you have taken the shot the aircraft will have moved from that focus location.

[RobinB]

OK, thx for the reply - I'm also going back to the shop I purchased said lens from and ask for a "check up" - the lens is still under guarentee

[FlyingPhotog]

It could possibly be Heat Haze?

I agree it could be heat haze. If the aircraft is that small in the frame when you are zoomed into it, that tells us you were pretty far from the aircraft.

[E-Diddy!]

Meealsothinks the heat haze issue is at play here.

[RobinB]

Meealsothinks the heat haze issue is at play here.

OK, then "mealsothinks" this can be very frustrating - many thanks for the replies - so the obvious question is how the hell do the rest of the JP shooters get by this problem - what am I missing ?

[Thebuzu]

OK, then "mealsothinks" this can be very frustrating - many thanks for the replies - so the obvious question is how the hell do the rest of the JP shooters get by this problem - what am I missing ?

I don't usually shoot at full zoom from a distant point. I get closer and try and shoot with the least zoom possible..


Ruben

[philip]

You should take a look at the original sized picture or post a crop of it here to make sure it is heat haze. The difference between a blurred/out of focus photo and one with haze issues should be easy to tell. While an out of focus photo is overall blurry the heat haze makes contures and straight lines appear as 'wave-like'.
There is basically no way to get rid of the heat haze problem except to avoid it by shooting in the morning/evening when the temperatures are not that high. The phenomenon does not only seem to depend on temperature though as I have seen the effect on cold winter days as well. Keep the distance to the aircraft to a minimum and avoid concrete surfaces between you and the object you are pointing your lens on.
Not much more you can do against it...and this is very annoying. I have lost so many motive-wise and technically fine pictures because of this..

To get back to your softness problem - try to shoot with a bit less than 300mm. Many lenses tend to be soft around the long end!

[kukkudrill]

While an out of focus photo is overall blurry the heat haze makes contures and straight lines appear as 'wave-like'.

I think heat haze in a photo is often present to a degree which is not strong enough to cause the telltale wobbly lines, but still enough to kill the sharpness. At least it's the only reason I can think of as to why photos taken with optimal camera/lens settings under a high sun turn out soft, whereas the same settings earlier or later in the day can turn out tack sharp photos!

[philip]

you might be right about that Charles!

[Longreach747]

Rob,
get out of P mode and put it into AV mode, f7.1 to f8 are usually good figures to work with and give great results. everyone has different methods, for me I have the object in focus for sometime before I shoot it...that way I make sure I have all 9 points focused and the majority of the frame covered by the object. I'd lose the tripod too! they can be more hassle if you ask me. just remember to focus on the object and when you feel its fully focused and not going to blur hit the shutter button.

[RobinB]

Got it Mont - many thanks - P Mode OK for static shots ? Went to a professional for a 1 day course - he said P mode was the way to go - so have been trying it.

PS - and I purchased a poloriser filter, although not used on that shot (above)

[Longreach747]

P is for pussies if you ask me, AV is the only mode I've shot in for the last 4 years..I just can't wrap myself around P mode, I don't feel comfortable not having control of the settings.