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Hi all!
I would like to upload my pictures at 1200 pixels instead of 1024.
Could someone teach me values of USM in order to obtain sharp images?
Thanks in advance, best regards
Fabrizio Berni - Italy
Just to make the pot full of ingredients more diverse I stick almost exclusively to USM set at 50_0.2_0.
I find that gives a finer control over the sharpening procedure.
If it 'ain't broken........ Don't try to mend it !
I usually resize to 2000px width and apply 2 passes of USM @ 50/0.4/0. Next, I resize to my target resolution (say, 1200px) and give it another pass @ 50/0.3/0, although this time using a layer mask which simply lets me paint over the areas that I want to be a bit more sharp.
Remember that creating a duplicate layer gives you the option to rub out any jaggies that develop during the sharpening.
Remember that creating a duplicate layer gives you the option to rub out any jaggies that develop during the sharpening.
Ok the duplicate layer technique is really killing me. I keep seeing it mentioned, but I don't understand how the duplicate layer works. If it gives me the opportunity to rub out jaggies from sharpening or to remove halos around aircraft, which layer do I edit, what tools do I use to rub out jaggies and which layer do I rub them out on?
Personally I'm a big fan of doing most of my sharpening on the full size image. The bigger the image the more information you have to deal with and I find the cleaner the sharpening looks, so on the full size image I'll usually apply 100-110% with a radius of 0.6. I'll then resize to usually somewhere between 1200 and 1600 pixels and, depending on the size of the final image, apply another pass of sharpening at 30-60% with a radius of 0.3.
As long as the results look good there's no real right or wrong way to do it, you just have to assess the merits of each method and do whatever works for you. Assuming you use Photoshop here are a couple of methods you could try:
Assuming the contrast of the original image is reasonable, apply the following to the full size image, so before cropping:
Amount: 100%
Radius: 0.6
Threshold: 0
Then crop, resize to 1200 and apply the following:
Amount: 40%
Radius: 0.3
Threshold: 0
If you want to try doing all your sharpening only on the resized image then crop, resize, make any necessary contrast adjustments and try:
Amount: 100%
Radius: 0.3
Threshold: 0
Just be sure you have all in-camera sharpening turned off, otherwise you'll be trying to sharpen an already sharpened image which generally ends up looking pretty nasty.
Ok the duplicate layer technique is really killing me. I keep seeing it mentioned, but I don't understand how the duplicate layer works. If it gives me the opportunity to rub out jaggies from sharpening or to remove halos around aircraft, which layer do I edit, what tools do I use to rub out jaggies and which layer do I rub them out on?
Hans,
As the name of this technique suggests, it is about editing the duplicate layer (as opposed to the background layer). Ctrl+J is the easiest way to do this and it'll automatically select the newly created layer for you. After you've applied the USM and once the jaggies start to appear (normally on the leading edges, on the undercarriage, around the nacelles etc.), select your Eraser tool (E) and rub out all the jaggies you have created. Once you have completed this, flatten the image.
Hans,
As the name of this technique suggests, it is about editing the duplicate layer (as opposed to the background layer). Ctrl+J is the easiest way to do this and it'll automatically select the newly created layer for you. After you've applied the USM and once the jaggies start to appear (normally on the leading edges, on the undercarriage, around the nacelles etc.), select your Eraser tool (E) and rub out all the jaggies you have created. Once you have completed this, flatten the image.
Hope this helps.
Got it. It works quite nice actually
Now I just need to play around with the hardness of the eraser to avoid adding softness back into the image.
Now I just need to play around with the hardness of the eraser to avoid adding softness back into the image.
Thank you!
Hans, I would leave hardness to 100% to keep the stroke tight and controlled, but I set the opacity to about 20-25% which will just take the edge off the sharpening, just enough to ease off the jaggies but not take to much sharpness away.
The beauty of using the eraser at a low opacity you can keep rubbing out till the jaggies are gone, imagine it as painting a wall, the more pressure you apply the thicker the paint, in this case the more you rub over the jaggies the more of them you will remove.
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