Dust spots - any better method than PS equalize to find them?

[71sbeetle]

I'm actually having sleepless nights and panic attacks over this one
Dust spot removal is one step in my editing, and currently I use photoshop equalize function HOWEVER when I upload, a lot of times using the "check for dust" function after uploading, I find more dust spots that I didn't/couldn't see on photoshop, so I need to go back to PS, and "blindly" remove the other dust spots and re-upload hoping I got them all, if I didn't get them all, well, lather rinse repeat

So, is there a better way to see the dust spots than PS equalize? I just realized one of my pics in queue had 1 little spot that I missed somehow, only that I realized it when it was in the queue for over a week lol, I wish at that point I could have simply re-uploaded a better shot to the upload queue without losing my place but it looks like that's not possible lol

[dlowwa]

I'm actually having sleepless nights and panic attacks over this one
Dust spot removal is one step in my editing, and currently I use photoshop equalize function HOWEVER when I upload, a lot of times using the "check for dust" function after uploading, I find more dust spots that I didn't/couldn't see on photoshop, so I need to go back to PS, and "blindly" remove the other dust spots and re-upload hoping I got them all, if I didn't get them all, well, lather rinse repeat

So, is there a better way to see the dust spots than PS equalize? I just realized one of my pics in queue had 1 little spot that I missed somehow, only that I realized it when it was in the queue for over a week lol, I wish at that point I could have simply re-uploaded a better shot to the upload queue without losing my place but it looks like that's not possible lol

The JP equalize tool is by far the strongest and easiest way. That being said, if they are very faint viewing when equalized, and impossible to see unequalized, the dust spots shouldn't necessarily cause a rejection. Myself, I have accepted many images that had contained oh-so faint dust spots when using the JP tool, but without using the JP tool (or even regular PS equalize) would be impossible to see.

[pawelm]

Or you can try to change brightness, contrast, levels etc on equalized layer. Just fiddle with sliders. Sometimes it helps

[StefBrat]

For me the easiest way is with Lightroom. I found it very helpful to read an instruction I've found on facebook.
http://www.ridder.aero/blog/removing...-in-lightroom/

It made it very easy for me and I never get a photo rejected for dust spots anymore. When doing that with Photoshop I sometimes missed something and it took quite a long time. Now I have it instantly and in LR you can also delete all actions taken without ruining your photo Also very fast way to crop your photo and do other things. LR made my workflow faster and easier

PS: I also recommend sending your cam in for cleaning maybe every year or before holiday etc. That reduces additional workload as the sensor is free. If you have a Canon DSLR these costs you in Europe around 40-60€, I heard from a friend a Nikon is around 60-70€. No guarantee on the prices as they can vary depending on your location.

[brianw999]

When it comes to sensor cleaning you can do it yourself. You need to purchase some sensor swabs of the correct size (16mm for DX sensors and 24mm for FX sensors) and a bottle of cleaning fluid. Follow the instructions carefully and you won't do any damage. I clean the sensor every time the lens is taken off. This link is an example of what is available but there are many others...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UES-Digital...r+cleaning+kit

Another good plan is to use a can of compressed air. I use Kenair. For the first purchase make sure that you get both the canister and the jet trigger. For subsequent purchases of the canister you can reduce costs by buying just the canister and simply transfer the screw fitted trigger unit...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb...=2ZH8T3F54G620

[Ellx]

Hello,
I went with my Nikon to the service center in Frankfurt.
The cost was 50€ and they installed also a new firmware.
They need the camera for about an hour or so, during this time it is a good idea to go to EDDF for spotting, thats not far away.

[pawelm]

You can also try one of these (or any other blower). With that you can get rid of most of sensor dust:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ir_Blower.html

I wouldn't recommend compressed air, unless it's used with some kind of filter. It may spray water drops when you use it!

And, as StefBrat said, the safest thing you can do, is taking it to a professional shop, where someone will do that for you. I have no idea how much would that cost in US, but in Poland, where I live, it's around 20-30 USD, and the price depends on how dirty is your CMOS.

One more thing. Once, you have your sensor cleaned, try to avoid changing lenses in open air. A car, for instance, is way better place to do that than somewhere around airport fence

[MarkLawrence]

Having gone through a lot of dust issues changing lenses - I find that going to a local repair /service place here in Florida every 6 or so months is definitely beneficial to keeping the camera in the best condition. Costs me around $40 for a clean our and sensor cleaning.

[71sbeetle]

Oh wow for some reason I didn't get any email notification of replies on this thread so thank you to everyone that has answered so far!

The JP equalize tool is by far the strongest and easiest way. That being said, if they are very faint viewing when equalized, and impossible to see unequalized, the dust spots shouldn't necessarily cause a rejection. Myself, I have accepted many images that had contained oh-so faint dust spots when using the JP tool, but without using the JP tool (or even regular PS equalize) would be impossible to see.

Yes, the JP tool is very strong, I wish it would be available as a photoshop plugin or LR preset!!! The equalize on photoshop is only maybe 20% as strong in some pictures lol

Or you can try to change brightness, contrast, levels etc on equalized layer. Just fiddle with sliders. Sometimes it helps

Don't know why I didn't think of that! I'll give it a try!

For me the easiest way is with Lightroom. I found it very helpful to read an instruction I've found on facebook.
http://www.ridder.aero/blog/removing...-in-lightroom/

It made it very easy for me and I never get a photo rejected for dust spots anymore. When doing that with Photoshop I sometimes missed something and it took quite a long time. Now I have it instantly and in LR you can also delete all actions taken without ruining your photo Also very fast way to crop your photo and do other things. LR made my workflow faster and easier

PS: I also recommend sending your cam in for cleaning maybe every year or before holiday etc. That reduces additional workload as the sensor is free. If you have a Canon DSLR these costs you in Europe around 40-60€, I heard from a friend a Nikon is around 60-70€. No guarantee on the prices as they can vary depending on your location.

Definitely going to look into this, I've been using photoshop only for equalize lately as I've been using affinity photo more for what I used to do with photoshop but haven't found an "equalize" function on it yet.
Cost for sensor cleaning is free for me as I am a Canon CPS member, just the cost to ship there which is minimal. The problem is I sent it in to have my 100-400 calibrated to my 5D4 body, asked for a sensor cleaning. Once I got the camera back I tried it and no visible sensor dust when shooting a blank surface at f/22, then went out for a couple days of shooting (lens never came off the body since Canon put it on) and started seeing dust spots on my shots, so I'm wondering if it's not an oil splatter issue like the 1DX had. I've since removed the lens and blew out the sensor with a rocket blower and those spots just do not go away.

When it comes to sensor cleaning you can do it yourself. You need to purchase some sensor swabs of the correct size (16mm for DX sensors and 24mm for FX sensors) and a bottle of cleaning fluid. Follow the instructions carefully and you won't do any damage. I clean the sensor every time the lens is taken off. This link is an example of what is available but there are many others...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UES-Digital...r+cleaning+kit

Another good plan is to use a can of compressed air. I use Kenair. For the first purchase make sure that you get both the canister and the jet trigger. For subsequent purchases of the canister you can reduce costs by buying just the canister and simply transfer the screw fitted trigger unit...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb...=2ZH8T3F54G620

I need to get more full frame swabs as I ran out of them (but have a ton of crop sensor ones left of course lol)

Hello,
I went with my Nikon to the service center in Frankfurt.
The cost was 50€ and they installed also a new firmware.
They need the camera for about an hour or so, during this time it is a good idea to go to EDDF for spotting, thats not far away.

Yes sensor was cleaned by Canon on mine recently

You can also try one of these (or any other blower). With that you can get rid of most of sensor dust:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]8414[/ATTACH]
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ir_Blower.html

I wouldn't recommend compressed air, unless it's used with some kind of filter. It may spray water drops when you use it!

And, as StefBrat said, the safest thing you can do, is taking it to a professional shop, where someone will do that for you. I have no idea how much would that cost in US, but in Poland, where I live, it's around 20-30 USD, and the price depends on how dirty is your CMOS.

One more thing. Once, you have your sensor cleaned, try to avoid changing lenses in open air. A car, for instance, is way better place to do that than somewhere around airport fence

I do have a few rocket blowers, and I absolutely avoid changing lenses in dusty/windy environment for that very reason When I see people taking their lens off and setting the body down I just cringe!!!!

Having gone through a lot of dust issues changing lenses - I find that going to a local repair /service place here in Florida every 6 or so months is definitely beneficial to keeping the camera in the best condition. Costs me around $40 for a clean our and sensor cleaning.

As already mentioned above yes I usually get 2-3 cleanings a year, and take all possible precautions. I'm thinking it could be oil splatter as it doesn't move at all with a rocket blower and the ones I have right now appeared after a cleaning with the lens never removed from it (it was clean when I received it and started getting a few spots after a few days of shooting)

[777MAN]

As already mentioned above yes I usually get 2-3 cleanings a year, and take all possible precautions. I'm thinking it could be (1DX)oil splatter as it doesn't move at all with a rocket blower and the ones I have right now appeared after a cleaning with the lens never removed from it (it was clean when I received it and started getting a few spots after a few days of shooting)[/QUOTE]

Interesting discussion. Heres a snap shot of my 1DX mk2 after very light use (10 weeks) from Lightroom at f/22 - Not real world shooting for me but does show the extent.

[71sbeetle]

Interesting discussion. Heres a snap shot of my 1DX mk2 after very light use (10 weeks) from Lightroom at f/22 - Not real world shooting for me but does show the extent.

Is it the 1DX issue all over again lol

[777MAN]

Is it the 1DX issue all over again lol

With Canon CPS right now, looks like it, all that fast flapping mirror stuff, should settle down.

[TAA]

Another good plan is to use a can of compressed air. I use Kenair. For the first purchase make sure that you get both the canister and the jet trigger. For subsequent purchases of the canister you can reduce costs by buying just the canister and simply transfer the screw fitted trigger unit...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb...=2ZH8T3F54G620[/QUOTE]

I would not use compressed air anywhere near the camera sensor or shutter mechanism as it likely to result in damage. Also, I actually find it easier to use a dry swab to clean the sensor rather than using it in conjunction with the cleaning fluid that is supplied. Lastly, sometimes the dust on the lens not the sensor!